Hi friends and readers:
I don’t view the word “suck” as a pejorative term. Sucking can be very nice sometimes. But I’ve got to say that the past three days, in terms of surfing, SUCKED. I got up this morning at seven A.M., threw on shorts and a hoodie (yeah it’s cool outside, fall is here) and hustled to the dunes to check the waves.
There were NONE.
So, I just had my breakfast and checked my e-mails and comments and now I’m just going to pack things up, put my surfboard on the roof of my car and drive back to the west coast.
You know, we as humans control so much of what happens in our lives — flick a switch and you’ve got whatever it is you want: cool air, warm air, hot water, Internet, TV, movies. The list goes on and on.
But you can’t order waves like you do pizza. Nature decides when we get to surf, and when the ocean goes flat, you have to accept it and not get frustrated. Right?
With any luck I’ll be back here in a couple of weeks and by then we should have some waves.
Have a great Saturday, all.